Equipment and costume rules

The purpose of these rules is to set clear, minimum recommended rules for the appearance of costume, equipment, armor and weapons with regard to historical fidelity with the aim of elevating the level of the Battle of Libušin and related historical reconstructions, with regard to availability of information, material and efficient use of investment. We do not want to be a gathering of average, but a selected society of historical faithful figures. These recommendations are primarily for beginners or inexperienced participants. We are not on the point, take these rules more as a recommendation, we all want a good result, but we will try to eliminate excesses.

These recommended conditions are valid during the course of the event, directly in battle or action and performances for spectators, as well as in a camp outside the battle (costume duty) for the entire duration of the event. On the other hand, if the conditions seem to be milder, it is not forbidden to have higher standards anywhere. On the contrary, it is welcome!

If you are not sure of anything, please contact our Autenticity Master by mail or phone, please contact us in advance. He will gladly help you, advise you and possibly find a solution.

Everybody should ideally create a specific character they want to portray. If you want to have it "ornate" you should have in case of discussion with Authenticity Master materials for a possible discussion, or in case of communication via email to provide photos in civilian and combat clothing, to avoid confusion with the interpretation. The Autenticity Master is here for you, not you for him. It is in your own interest to follow any recommendations he may have.
General rules and recommendations:
  1. The overall appearance of the character should be unified and harmonized with regard to the date, social status, location and situation of the character you represent.
  2. Every item of clothing, armor, equipment or weapon should be historically documented. The appearance should be plausible. Functionality and material can be modified from the safety point of view, but with maximum respect for appearance fidelity (except defined exceptions - arrows, arrows etc.)
  3. Costumes must be made of period materials (or 100% look-like materials - look, feel, weave weave, color) and match the style at the time.
  4. Avoid glaring materials such as daptyins, false velvet, cotton fabrics (if there was no cotton in the featured period), artificial satin, and so on. Thus, the usual medieval clothing should be primarily made of flax and wool. If the participant portrays a figure who has certainly used a noble garment where silk velvet has been used in history, he can use cotton velvet as a replica as well as artificial or cotton satin, but only where it belongs to make the garment as a whole historically appropriate , including embroidery, ornaments, laid threads, pearls, etc. Give the cheap drapery skirts, or shocking, grumpy "fiddle humus" without proper decoration.
  5. In general, avoid fads and favor commonly occurring elements unless it is a pre-agreed role or a specific character.
  6. Clothing and accessories can be sewn on the machine, visible seams are recommended to be made by hand, but of adequate quality)
Costume rules:
  1. Dresses and their parts should be properly combined and worn according to documented cut (look of silhouette).
  2. Wear trousers (pants) of vintage look and cut - hacje, trousers, belly.
    Shoes must be made primarily as a replica of period shoes and period material. Rubber soles and outer seams are tolerated. Avoid shoes with non-existent rear bindings and similar excesses.
  3. Head protection is only allowed in the period type and appearance and fully functional (ie with adequate padding, etc.)
  4. Belts and buckles only of vintage look and material. Chrome buckles with a roll from Repa are also a disgrace. Due to the price of contemporary brass buckles, it is recommended to buy only new brass, not aluminum substitutes for new buckles.
  5. Armor should be timely coordinated and contain only existing elements. And be fully functional. To simplify dating, the overall look primarily determined by the helmet is taken. Leather armor parts must be functional (ie not from thin cuticles, eco-leather, artificial leather, etc.) and documented construction.
  6. Metal shields, as they do not exist in history, are prohibited (except in the case of tournament targes and puzzles where metal was used, but only for characters and in the periods where they belong). Furthermore, for security reasons, it is not recommended to use shielding that has not existed in history. The edges were coated with fabric or raw leather! Raw leather is very resistant, as evidenced by its use in history and against sharp weapons and current practice fully confirms it. Despite the fact that the shield is then lighter and better to fight.
  7. Non-period elements under clothing and armor are tolerated only in the tournament for the needs of the athlete, for health protection or necessary limb fixation etc. In such a case, it is necessary to cover such parts of clothing so that they are not visible.
  8. All participants should have a historically plausible headgear for civilian clothing, ie gentlemen a hat, a cap, a hood, a baby or something similar, ladies a hood, a hat or a thread or henin. The only exception is squires with long curly hair and children.
  9. Bascinet helmets, if they had a hinge on the original, must be worn at least in combination with a hood. The hood instead of the curtain is not correct, except for the late Italian pedalos without visors from the turn of the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Of course, the skull-type helmets worn over the coil are perfectly fine.
     
In particular, please avoid the following ills:
  1. 'Buzzers' (elastics, leggings, calliops, etc.), pants, tracksuits and other non-period trousers.
  2. Non-timber shoes: canada, boots, mugs, valenki, retirement shoes, sneakers, even wrapped in rag, by fur or otherwise "fucked".
  3. Suspicious decoration with chrome rivet and other metal scrap (stones, pyramids, hoods).
  4. Early piercing, modern jewelry, rings, earrings and tattoos worn in visible places
  5. Armor will not be tolerated: anything that contains spring washers, pexes, anti-cut aprons, ringlets other than traditional knitting (chiz) except for the reconstruction of specific documented Asian and Arab armor, pseudo-brigantines , occult symbols and skulls on shields, etc.
  6. Head protection: Helmet itself without helmet over, fan helmet, third empire air defense helmet and all other army helmets
  7. Traveling combinations of arms components (pot for metal plates, rings over the shirt - absence of quilting, etc.)
  8. Non-historical tapes (fire, military) and non-period straps (chrome-plated with roll, cowboy, fantasy, etc.)
  9. Non-historical glasses must not be worn visibly in front of the viewers. Wear lenses or period glasses.
  10. Materials of non-timber appearance, including leatherette and obviously plastic fur and fur.
  11. Non-period elements under clothing and armor in situations where they may be exposed (in a time camp when dressing in front of spectators, or when putting on corpses, etc.) or at listed events. Mainly these are sweatshirts and t-shirts with the inscription - do not forget that they can climb the neckline!
Period camp and life:
 
  1. We only use period vessels, cutlery, furniture, tents and bags for things and objects. This also applies to the equipment of open tents, blankets and sleeping facilities - if anything is unobtrusive, it must be safely covered or packed in a period trunk or bag for the duration of the camp so that it is not accidentally exposed (stainless steel tankards are tolerated).
  2. In particular, the visible use of pet-bottles and plastic or other prominent plastics, mats, sleeping bags, plastic tarpaulins and masked tarpaulins is prohibited.
  3. The same applies to the use of mobile phones, non-timber tools and objects (we have lamp oil in jugs or bottles, glue bottle does not roll out of the tent or on the table, etc.)
  4. We do not smoke in a contemporary camp - we go to a designated hidden place or we smoke in closed tents.
  5. Non-historical (modern) tents are prohibited (bubbles, iglou, party tents etc.)
Other recommended examples of equipment for individuals:
  1. Bowl and spoon of historical type (ceramics, tin, wood - used to be turned hardwood rather than softwood)
  2. Cup or other drinking cup of documented type
  3. Sharp knife of proven type
  4. If you will spend the night, use a blanket without modern designs or bright colors, or fur (preferably both) as a blanket.
  5. Bag or sack or chest for your belongings
  6. Tornu ala a handrail or a leather bag for immediate use
  7. Linen handkerchief (napkin of silk)

Summary: It is necessary to learn to think in context and not to purchase equipment short-circuit. The optimal procedure is to determine the selected period, as well as the character that I want to portray and with this in mind to acquire equipment. Not to be afraid to ask and advise, everyone knows something, and that is why Authenticity masters are here and more experienced tribes to share experiences and help each other.


For example: If I want to do armor from the first half of the 15th century, I'll try to find some depictions and I start building accordingly. I get an adequate weapon - a sword or fang with a fist-tag as personal weapon, a long stick or firearm or a firearm as the main weapon. I will choose an adequate helmet - hat, pedal or sall with a fixed visor if I portray an ordinary pawn. My burger armor will not contain large opulent riding shoulders, etc. On the contrary, I will have rather good quilting, simple walking cuirass or ring shirt and the colors of clothing will be rather sober and cut practical.

Another example: If I want to faithfully portray nobles, I have to reckon with the fact that my equipment will be expensive, armor of good quality, costume made of rich fabrics and weapons of excellent, fine leather shoes, rich decoration, costume according to 100% preserved style. However, if we do not want to destroy our costly costume while staying in the camp, I will get another ordinary one (a day of a cumin, an evening gentleman), a practical one that will be of historical design. If I portray a magnate or a single lord, it is clear that as such I should be surrounded by entourage or fraucimor and also act as a nobleman. If I want to portray a highly noble nobleman, it would have wanted a larger retinue beyond his back, his own gunner or artillery, or his own horse, with whom you would arrive on the battlefield on the back of your steed with your army.

 

Role playing: Overall, we should go back to playing roles, so if I am a mercenary I act according to whether I want to be a knight so I also have to adapt behavior to it. It is strange that the scented knight dresses alone, or finishes furiously as the last hut of an enemy knight, instead of committing him with a promise of captivity and asking for a ransom, or failing to be courtesy to a lady. It is better to present a heavily-dressed mercenary who does not go far from a dirty word. Playing roles does not prevent us from enjoying the action quite the contrary. In the Middle Ages, it was drunk, eaten and entertained in a quite abundant and rich way, and it will allow us to experience a piece of history that we create ourselves. So let's not spoil it with plastic bottles and plastic turkish bags and loudly played radio aside of the gas burner in front of the parked car.